3D Print Not Sticking to Bed? Try These 9 Quick Fixes Right Now

(Reddit)

You set up the file. Leveled the bed. Pressed print. Then.. nothing. The first layer starts to curl, or worse, doesn't even stick at all. Now you're staring at spaghetti on your build plate and wondering what the hell went wrong.

Sound familiar? You're not alone.

Bed adhesion is the #1 issue that haunts new and seasoned 3D printer users alike. And most of the advice online? Either too basic or too scattered to actually solve the problem.

This guide is different. We're breaking down exactly why your 3D print isn't sticking to the bed, plus the exact tweaks, checks, and hacks you can try to get clean first layers every time.

Why Bed Adhesion Matters (and What It Affects)

(Reddit)

If the first layer doesn’t stick, the rest of your print doesn't stand a chance.

It’s that simple.

3D print bed adhesion problems are one of the leading reasons behind failed prints. When the base layer peels, shifts, or detaches mid-print, you end up with warped parts, stringy blobs, or a nozzle dragging filament around like a toddler with spaghetti.

Even small lifts at the corners (especially with ABS or PETG) can cause dimensional issues, surface inconsistencies, or a total do-over.

Strong adhesion gives you a stable foundation. Without it, every pass of the nozzle becomes a gamble.

Common Causes of Bed Adhesion Problems

Before you go blaming your filament or printer, check the usual suspects. Most 3D printer adhesion problems come down to a few repeat offenders:

🔹 Bed Isn’t Properly Leveled

Even a slight tilt can throw off nozzle height. If one corner’s closer than the rest, the filament won’t lay down evenly, and that means uneven adhesion or none at all.

🔹 Nozzle Too Far from Bed

If the first layer isn’t squishing slightly into the bed, it won’t bond. That perfect “squish” is what helps the filament grip instead of just being dragged around. If your 3D print isn’t sticking to the build plate, this is usually why.

🔹 Dust, Oils, or Residue on the Bed

Your hands, filament dust, or leftover adhesive can ruin grip. Even if the bed looks clean, oils from skin or an old layer of glue can mess with surface tension. Clean it often.

🔹 Wrong Bed Temperature

Different materials need different temps. PLA usually likes 50–60°C, ABS wants 90–110°C. Get that wrong, and you’ll run into curling or full detachment.

🔹 Cooling Fan Too Early

Some slicers default to having the part cooling fan turn on immediately. That’s a problem. The first layer needs warmth to stick, blasting it with cool air too soon can pop it right off.

🔹 Using the Wrong Bed Surface for Your Filament

A smooth glass bed might be perfect for PLA with a bit of glue stick, but terrible for PETG without a textured surface. One-size-fits-all doesn’t work here.

9 Quick Fixes to Try Right Now

(Freepik)

You don’t always need new parts or magic potions to solve 3D printer bed adhesion problems. In most cases, it just takes a few solid tweaks. Here are nine tried-and-tested fixes you should try before you rage-quit or blame your printer:

1. Re-Level the Bed (Yes, Again)

Leveling drifts over time, thanks to vibration, thermal changes, or bumping the bed. Manually re-level and check all four corners. Don’t trust auto-level blindly unless you’ve calibrated it well.

2. Adjust the Z-Offset

If your nozzle’s too high, the filament won’t stick. Too low, and it scrapes. You want that perfect “squish”, not flattened gum, not floating lines. A baby step of 0.05mm can change everything.

3. Clean the Print Surface

Use isopropyl alcohol (IPA), not just a tissue wipe. A dirty bed is the most common reason 3D prints don’t stick to the bed. Avoid touching it afterward with your fingers. Oils from your skin can ruin adhesion.

4. Use a Glue Stick or Adhesive

Sometimes PLA just needs a little help. A light layer of glue stick, hairspray, or even blue painter’s tape can improve grip, especially on smooth glass beds.

5. Slow Down the First Layer

Lower your first layer speed to around 20–30 mm/s. This gives the filament time to melt, spread, and bond. Fast first layers often drag or curl, especially on cold beds.

6. Increase First Layer Extrusion

Bump up your first layer flow rate to 105–110% in the slicer. More material means more contact with the surface, helping to lock it in place.

7. Disable Fan for the First Few Layers

Let that filament stay warm and sticky. Cooling fans harden the plastic too quickly, especially with PLA. Turn off the fan for at least the first two layers.

8. Check Bed Temperature Settings

PLA loves 55–60°C. PETG prefers 70–90°C. ABS needs 90–110°C and an enclosure. If your 3D printer filament is not sticking to the bed, you might be printing too cold.

9. Try a Brim or Raft

Still not sticking? A brim adds surface area without messing with the model. A raft gives you a totally new base layer to print on. Both help improve adhesion on tricky models or tough filaments.

Want to take your prints from good to great? Top 3D Printing Tips to Fix Quality Issues & Improve Every Print, especially if you’re done troubleshooting and ready to fine-tune.

Material-Specific Tips: PLA, PETG, ABS, and More

Bed adhesion issues can look the same across filaments, but the fix? Not always. Here’s how to treat each material like it wants to be treated:

PLA (Polylactic Acid)

Common issue: Peeling edges or uneven first layer.

Fix it with:

● Bed temp around 55–60°C

● Blue painter’s tape or glue stick on glass

● Low fan speed for the first layer

● Slow initial print speed (20–30 mm/s)

ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene)

Common issue: Corner warping and total detachment.

Fix it with:

● Enclosed chamber or draft shield

● Bed temp 90–110°C

● Use a brim or raft

● Avoid cooling fans completely

PETG (Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol)

Common issue: Not sticking at first, then fusing too well.

Fix it with:

● Bed temp 75–90°C

● PEI sheet or textured surface

● No glue stick on smooth glass, it may weld

● Z-offset slightly higher than PLA

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TPU (Flexible Filament)

Common issue: Curling edges or dragging on the first layer.

Fix it with:

● Lower speed (15–25 mm/s)

● Bed temp 40–60°C

● Nozzle a bit closer than usual

● Avoid warping by slowing cooling

Lock Down That First Layer

When your 3D print isn’t sticking to the bed, the fix usually isn’t a mystery, it’s a matter of calibration, cleanup, and understanding your filament. Whether it's your first print or your 50th failed attempt, most issues come down to the first few millimeters.

Still stuck? Skip the frustration.

Get a free quote for JLC3DP’s 3D printing services and let us take the technical headache off your plate. We get it right, layer one through layer last.