Resin vs FDM for Miniatures: Which 3D Printing Method is Best?

Quick Answer: Resin vs FDM for Miniatures

Choose resin if you want maximum detail and smooth surfaces.

Choose FDM if you want cheaper, tougher prints for terrain and bulk pieces.

Resin vs FDM for Miniatures: Quick Pros & Cons

Quick Verdict:

Resin = Best detail & display models

FDM = Best for cheap, durable, large, or terrain pieces

If you're deciding between resin vs FDM for miniatures, testing both methods before investing in hardware can save time and cost.

At JLC3DP, we offer professional FDM and resin 3D printing services, allowing you to validate detail, durability, and surface finish without buying a printer. New users can also enjoy up to $123 in coupons to get started.

What Counts as “Resin Printing” in This Guide?

In this article, resin printing mainly refers to SLA/MSLA (LCD resin printing).

We also include WJP (White Jet Process) as a high-detail resin-based method often used for professional miniature-grade parts.

In this guide, resin printing includes common technologies like SLA/MSLA and WJP (White Jet Process).

All of them deliver high-resolution surfaces, making them ideal for resin printed miniatures and display models.

FDM vs Resin Printing Miniatures: Key Differences

Both FDM and resin printers turn digital models into physical minis. The similarity pretty much ends there. They build parts in completely different ways, and those differences show up fast when you’re printing something as unforgiving as a miniature.

FDM Printing (Strengths & Limitations for Miniatures)

FDM printers work by pushing molten filament through a nozzle and stacking lines of plastic layer by layer. That approach is great for durability, larger parts, and low material cost. It’s also why FDM is often the entry point for beginner 3D printing miniatures.

For minis, though, the limitations are obvious. Nozzle size and layer height put a hard cap on how much detail you can resolve. Thin swords, facial features, and shallow textures tend to soften or disappear entirely. You can tune settings and use smaller nozzles, but there’s only so much the process can physically do at that scale.

That said, FDM still has a place. Terrain, bases, props, and larger gaming pieces don’t rely on micro-detail, and FDM handles those efficiently with less mess and simpler post-processing.

Resin Printing (Why It Excels at Fine Detail)

Resin printing uses light to cure liquid resin in precise layers. Instead of extruding plastic, it hardens entire layers at once, which is why resin printed miniatures vs FDM look dramatically different straight off the printer.

This method excels at sharp edges, tiny recesses, and smooth curves. Faces look defined instead of soft and rounded. Chainmail, runes, and armor texture actually survive the print. That’s why a resin 3D printer for miniatures is often the go-to choice for figurines and character models.

If you're selecting hardware, this breakdown of the best resin printers for miniatures compares resolution, screen type, and build volume for hobby use.

The trade-off is workflow. Resin requires washing, curing, and careful handling. The payoff is detail, but you earn it.

Print Quality & Surface Detail

This is where the decision becomes obvious for most people. Even without knowing the tech, you can usually spot which minis came from resin and which came from FDM.

Resin Printed Miniatures vs FDM: What You’ll See in Real Prints

Detail Resolution of Resin vs FDM

XY resolution is usually 35–50μm, while layer height can go down to 10–50μm, depending on the machine and settings. FDM printers usually land around 100–200 microns or more. On paper, that’s just numbers. On a miniature, it’s the difference between a readable face and a vague suggestion of one.

Weapons stay crisp with resin. Fingers don’t fuse. Small decorative elements actually exist instead of being rounded off. For FDM vs resin printing miniatures, this gap is the single biggest technical divider.

Visible Layer Lines & Surface Texture

(Reddit)

FDM prints almost always show layer lines, especially on curved surfaces like cloaks, helmets, and shoulders. Paint tends to exaggerate those lines unless you sand or fill them first.

Resin prints, by contrast, come off the plate with a much smoother surface. Layer lines are still there, but they’re subtle enough that primer usually hides them completely.

Impact on Miniature Painting

For many hobbyists, this is the deciding factor. Resin minis take primer evenly and hold paint cleanly, which makes blending, washing, and fine highlights easier. That smoother base is a huge advantage when painting 3D printing gaming miniatures meant to be viewed up close.

FDM minis can absolutely be painted, but expect extra prep. Sanding, filler, and careful priming become part of the process if you want a comparable finish. For some people, that’s fine. For others, it’s the point where resin starts to make more sense despite the added post-processing.

Cost Comparison of Resin vs FDM

Is Resin More Expensive than FDM?

Quick Cost Summary: Resin costs more per mini, but wins on detail. FDM is cheaper overall, especially for terrain.

(Freepik)

Printer & Material Costs

In 2026, the upfront price of a resin 3D printer for miniatures is closer to FDM than ever. You can get capable machines on either side without a massive investment. However, the true cost of resin vs filament prints shows up in the consumables:

Filament (FDM):

Cheap and forgiving. One kilogram of filament produces a massive volume of minis or hollow terrain.

Resin:

Higher price per liter. While you use less material per miniature, the unit volume cost remains a premium. You are paying for precision, not raw plastic.

Consumables & Setup Costs

This is where resin quietly adds overhead. To maintain a resin workflow, you need:

 1. Nitrile gloves, Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA), and paper towels.

 2. Replacement FEP films and LCD screen protectors.

 3. A dedicated Wash & Cure station (~$150).

FDM setups are simpler: filament, a scraper, and an occasional nozzle replacement. This lower barrier to entry makes it the preferred choice for beginner 3D printing miniatures.

Long-Term Investment (2026 Estimates)

Speed & Production Practicality: Single Mini vs. Batching

When discussing FDM vs resin printing miniatures, "speed" is a trick question. It depends entirely on your production volume.

Single Mini Print Time

If you need just one character for tomorrow’s game, FDM can be surprisingly competitive. With a well-tuned machine, you "slice and go" with no vats or chemical prep.

Resin printed miniatures vs FDM models take longer to set up for a single piece. Because resin prints layer-by-layer regardless of the horizontal area, even a tiny mini can take 3–6 hours. As many on Reddit say: "Resin feels slow when I just want one dude."

The Power of Batch Printing

This is where a resin 3D printer for miniatures flips the table.

a. Resin Superpower: Printing 20 minis takes the same time as printing one, provided they fit on the build plate. The UV light cures the entire layer at once.

b. FDM Limitation: Each additional mini adds travel moves, retractions, and hours to the clock. A full plate can easily become an all-day affair.

Setup & Cleaning: The Reality Check

The total time includes post-processing resin miniatures. Resin requires washing, curing, and careful handling of chemicals. FDM is "blunt and simple"—pop the part off the bed, trim the supports, and you are done.

Verdict:

FDM is slower while printing but faster to the table. Resin is faster for batch production but slower due to intensive cleanup.

Conclusion: Which Should You Choose?

Choose Resin (SLA/WJP) if you want sharp faces, crisp armor, and high-detail display pieces.

Choose FDM if you want cheap, durable terrain and a low-maintenance workflow.

Skip the Learning Curve: If you don't want to deal with the hidden costs of failed prints or chemical cleanup, outsourcing is your best shortcut. Get professional-grade resin printed miniatures or FDM terrain with a quick quote from JLC3DP.

Post-Processing Differences

Many beginners focus only on the print time, but the real effort begins when the machine stops. In 2026, post-processing has become much more automated, but the fundamental difference between the two technologies remains: Resin is a chemical process; FDM is a mechanical one.

Resin Post-Processing (The "Laboratory" Workflow)

Resin minis look incredible, but they come off the build plate covered in toxic, uncured liquid. You cannot skip these steps:

The Wash: Minis must be agitated in Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) or a cleaning solution for 5–10 minutes.

2026 Pro Tip: Water-washable resins are now the hobby standard, allowing you to use dedicated detergent cycles instead of harsh chemicals.

Support Removal: Removing resin supports is best done after washing but before final curing. A quick dip in warm water softens the supports, allowing them to peel off like butter without pitting the model.

The Final Cure: Once dry, the mini needs 2–5 minutes in a UV curing station. Without this, the model stays tacky and may eventually crack or weep toxic liquid.

FDM Post-Processing (The "Workshop" Workflow)

FDM is much more "plug-and-play," but reaching "resin-like" smoothness requires elbow grease:

Snap & Go: Most FDM supports can be removed with needle-nose pliers or even your fingers.

The Layer Line Battle: Since FDM leaves visible ridges, you’ll likely use a filler primer or high-build spray. (2026 Pro Tip: Many hobbyists now use electric sanders (pen-sized) or chemical vapor )

Comparison: Post-Processing Effort

A Note on 2026 Environmental Standards: Regardless of which method you choose, never pour resin-contaminated water or IPA down the drain. Let the waste liquid sit in the sun; once the resin particles cure and settle, you can filter them out and dispose of the plastic safely.

Is the extra work worth it?

If you are preparing a single hero for a D&D campaign, the 15 minutes of "chemical work" for a resin print yields a professional result that FDM simply can't match. However, if you are building an entire castle (terrain), the simplicity of popping FDM parts off the bed and immediately gluing them together is a massive time-saver.

Want to skip the mess entirely?

If the idea of handling chemicals and UV lamps doesn't appeal to you, you can get professional-grade resin or FDM parts delivered to your door. [Check out JLC3DP’s material options here] to see how "Pro" post-processing looks.

Best Choice for Beginner 3D Printing Miniatures: Resin or FDM?

Practical Tips for Better Miniature Printing

Layer Height: Use 10–50μm for resin, smaller nozzles for FDM.

Orientation: Slight angles improve detail and reduce visible lines.

Supports: Place carefully for resin; interface settings save sanding for FDM.

Post-Processing: Resin needs wash & UV cure; FDM needs sanding/filler for best results.

Conclusion: Which Method Should You Choose?

There isn’t a single “correct” answer here, and that’s the honest truth most comparisons skip.

If your priority is sharp faces, crisp armor edges, and minis that look great under a magnifying lamp, resin is hard to beat. It’s built for fine detail, smooth surfaces, and models meant to be painted and admired up close.

If you're choosing resin for detail-focused miniatures, our guide to the best resin for miniatures breaks down which formulations offer better sharpness, durability, and paint performance.

FDM sits on the other side of the spectrum. It’s cheaper to run, easier to live with day-to-day, and far less demanding in terms of cleanup and safety. For terrain, larger figures, props, or gaming pieces that get handled a lot, FDM makes a ton of sense. With good settings and a bit of finishing work, it can still deliver perfectly playable results.

What usually happens in the real world? People don’t stay loyal to just one method. Many hobbyists start with FDM, move to resin for character minis, and end up using both depending on the project. Resin for heroes and display pieces. FDM for bulk terrain, accessories, and anything that needs to survive constant tabletop use.

If you don’t want to invest in machines, materials, and trial-and-error right away, outsourcing can be the fastest shortcut. Services like JLC3DP let you choose between resin and FDM printing based on your model’s needs, without locking yourself into one workflow. You get professional-grade output, consistent quality, and the freedom to focus on painting, gaming, or design instead of printer tuning.

FAQ: Resin vs FDM for Miniatures

Q1: Can FDM produce good miniatures or is resin required?

A: Yes, FDM can work, but resin gives cleaner detail with less effort.

Q2: Does resin waste more material?

A: Yes. Supports, failed prints, and cleanup create more waste than FDM.

Q3: Is one method safer for home printing?

A: FDM is safer and easier. Resin needs gloves, ventilation, and care.

Q4: Which method is better for gaming minis vs terrain?

A: Resin for detailed minis. FDM for terrain and large pieces.